John Chan | Wine Pairing Suggestion: Wines for Chinese New Year 適合農曆新年的葡萄酒

Wines for Chinese New Year 2023

葡萄酒搭配年糕建議 Chinese New Year Pudding Pairing Suggestion:

Chinese New Year is certainly an important festival in Chinese culture for families to get together and celebrate. Chinese New Year Puddings are by far the iconic snack for this festival; and pudding for now are presented in a wide varieties in terms of sweetness level, some are savory, ingredients and format. As a sommelier, other than Chinese tea, I would like to give an insight to Chinese New Year pairing recommendations.

農曆新年毋庸置疑是中國文化中一個很重要的節日,藉此讓家人朋友歡聚和慶祝。時至今天,年糕依然是這個節日必吃的應節小吃。在甜度、配料和形狀方面亦有愈趨多元的選擇,更有鹹味的。作為一名品酒師,我樂於與大家分享一些個人見解,推薦適合農曆新年的葡萄酒搭配,作為中國茶以外的選擇。

1 | 經典款式 Classic Style
紅棗年糕 CHINESE NEW YEAR PUDDING WITH RED DATE

Recommendation:

Oremus Late Harvest, 2019, 500ML

Price $220 per bottle

Chinese New Year Pudding with Red Date, Oremus Late Harvest, 2019, 500ML

品飲記錄 Tasting note:

Oremus Late Harvest has a brilliant straw color and aromas of pineapple and freshly grated lemon zest. Oremus Late Harvest 具有明亮的稻草色,散發出菠蘿及新鮮磨碎的檸檬皮的香氣。
On the palate there are flavors of ripe sliced pineapple and white peaches. The finish is sweet and elegant. 味道上有醇熟的菠蘿片和白桃味。餘韻甜美而優雅。

搭配指南 Pairing insight:

The intensity and richness of the sweet wine share a similar sweetness and intensity with the Chinese New Year Pudding with Red Date.
甜酒的濃郁度和醇厚度與煙韌且香馥濃郁的紅棗年糕很相似。
Sweet spices from Oremus enhance the echoes between flavours and bring a 3-dimensional enjoyment. 來自 Oremus酒莊的甜香料加強味道之間的互相呼應,帶來立體的享受。

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2 | 優渥方案 Premium Way
蘿蔔糕配蝦米和臘腸 TURNIP CAKE WITH SUN-DRIED SHRIMPS AND PORK SAUSAGES

Recommendation 1:

Chateau Climens, Barsac, 2004, 750ML

Price $600 per bottle

Turnip Cake With Sun-dried Shrimps And Pork Sausages, Chateau Climens, Barsac, 2004, 750ML

品飲記錄 Tasting note:

The nose has a delicacy that is uncommon for a youthful Climens, unfurling with subtle scents of caramelized butter, dried honey, mint and lemon thyme, but immediately identifiable as Climens.
年輕的Climens葡萄酒聞起來帶著一種罕有的細膩感,散發著熱牛油香、烘乾的蜂蜜、薄荷和檸檬百里等微妙香氣,讓人馬上能辨認出是Climens葡萄酒。
The palate is viscous on the entry, with Climens' trademark spiciness lurking under the surface. 入口時濃郁,隱藏了的 Climens 標誌性辛辣味也漸漸蔓延開來。
This is very harmonious and focused - probably just beginning to enter its drinking plateau. 這是非常和諧且集中的 - 可能是因為這款Climens開始進入其飲用的平穩期。

搭配指南 Pairing insight:

Climens offers this rich sweetness level with a cool breeze of acidity.
Climens 擁有濃郁的甜度,亦帶有清涼感覺的酸度。
A bite of a savory turnip with pork sausage with a pan fried burnt crust, sipping this heavenly Barsac encourages few more rounds of bites and sips. 咬一口帶有鹹香味臘腸的焦香「燶邊」蘿蔔糕,啜飲這種天堂般的 Barsac,鼓勵一口接一口的品嚐。
The natural smoky note from aroma and vibrant acidity at the after taste create a neutral palate for every bite; but with tremendous layers of complexity. 香氣中的自然煙燻味和餘韻中充滿活力的酸度為每一口都營造出中性的口感;但具有巨大的複雜性。

Recommendation 2:

Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes, 2009, 750ml

Price $750 per bottle

Turnip Cake With Sun-dried Shrimps And Pork Sausages , Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes, 2009, 750ml

品飲記錄 Tasting note:

The palate is beautifully balanced with perfectly judged acidity and immense purity. 口感平衡極佳,酸度判斷無懈可擊,純度極高。
The finish offers crisp honey, quince and clementine notes laden with botrytis that is counterpoised by wonderful acidity. 餘韻予以清香蜂蜜、木瓜和柑橘的味道,充滿了貴腐甜酒專屬的酒香,與美妙的酸度相得益彰。

搭配指南 Pairing insight:

Suduiraut offers this rich sweetness level with an intensity and viscosity.
Suduiraut 讓這種有豐富甜度的酒,具有濃郁度和粘性。
This richness echoes the savory umami offered from sun-dried meats and sausages to enhance a harmonious balance. 這種豐富性與臘味和香腸的鹹香相呼應,營造出一種和諧的平衡。
The pairing principle is similar to Foie Gras with Sauternes, which creates an ultra-contrast. 其搭配原理類似於鵝肝與Sauternes的搭配,創造出一種強烈的對比。
Each sip and bite evolves a dramatic shock to present a maximize palate enjoyment. 每一口都會演變成一種戲劇性的衝擊,呈現出最大的味覺享受。

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3 | 新年美食鑑賞家 New Year Dining Connoisseur
人氣菜式:冬菇、蠔豉、髮菜炆鴨掌;紅燒鮑魚海參乾瑤柱醬汁 POPULAR DISHES: BRAISED DUCK WEBS WITH CHINESE MUSHROOM, DRIED OYSTERS AND BLACK MOSS; BRAISED ABALONE WITH SEA CUCUMBER AND SUN-DRIED HOTATE COULIS

Recommendation:

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, 2018, 750ML

Price $1,990 per bottle

Braised Duck Webs With Chinese Mushroom, Dried Oysters and Black Moss; Braised Abalone With Sea Cucumber and Sun-dried Hotate Coulise,Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, 2018, 750ML

品飲記錄 Tasting note:

The palate is lifted and bright, the finish is polished and long, and the wine skips over any heaviness on the mid-palate. 口感提升而明亮,餘韻羞澀而圓潤,不帶任何沉重感,口感中沒有多餘的單寧阻礙。
The bouquet is especially intriguing with a very lively plummy fruit element that is enhanced by baker's chocolate, pepper spice, iron ore, caramel and pie crust. 香氣特別迷人,帶有非常活潑的李子水果元素、麵包師的巧克力、胡椒香料、鐵礦石、焦糖和餡餅皮使香氣更加濃郁。
There is also a green character that adds positively to the bouquet with aniseed, tea leaf, soya, menthol rub and black olive. 大茴香、茶葉、大豆、薄荷油和黑橄欖的香氣更增添了令人愉悅的清爽味道。
The fruit maturity is spot-on with no elements that feel over or underripe. 水果成熟度恰到好處,沒有任何過熟或未熟的元素。

搭配指南 Pairing insight:

Chinese braised dishes carry loads of umami of dried seafood boost the intensity of every bite; wines with this sort of dishes should be heavier in weight but softer in tannin level.
中國紅燒菜式常帶有大量海味的鮮味,提升了每一口的強度;酒體厚重濃郁但單寧較柔和的葡萄酒更適合搭配這類菜餚。
Meanwhile, oakiness level is well managed in order to present the sweetness and freshness of the delicacy. 同時,橡木味控制得宜,以呈現美味的甜味和新鮮感。

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4 | 甜蜜的句號 Sweet Ending
受歡迎的食物:花生湯圓 POPULAR FOOD: CHINESE GLUTINOUS RICE BALLS SOUP WITH SUGAR AND GROUND NUTS

Recommendation:

Oremus Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, 2000, 500ML

Price $620 per bottle

Chinese Glutinous Rice Balls Soup With Sugar and Ground Nuts, Oremus Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, 2000, 500ML

品飲記錄 Tasting note:

Notes of grilled pineapple, grapefruit and honey in the nose. 陣陣烤菠蘿、葡萄柚和蜂蜜的香氣不待嗅而自入鼻中。
Creamy and fat in the mouth, broad and enveloping in its honey, vanilla and grilled citrus character. 口感幼滑而醇厚,環繞著豐盛的、有個性的蜂蜜、香草和烤柑橘味道。
Pungently spicy, with a hint of caramel in the finish. 刺激的辛辣感,伴隨著餘韻中淡淡的焦糖香。

搭配指南 Pairing insight:

As the sweetness of the rice ball is partly diluted with the soup, this classic dessert is actually not as sweet as we think.
由於湯圓的甜味被湯汁中和了一部分,這道經典甜品並沒有我們想像中那麼甜膩。
Rather it carries a ginger spiciness and the sandy texture of the stuffings echoes. 相反,它帶有生薑的辛辣,並與花生餡料的顆粒感相呼應。
The low alcoholic content of this Tokaji helps you like a digestif but not overly disturbing. Tokaji 的酒精含量低,較易入口但不妨礙享受。無疑能為團年飯完美作結。

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JOHN CHAN

John Chan, who honored awards such as the champion of Best Sommelier of the Year 2006 organized by Hong Kong Sommelier Association and Best Sommelier of the Year 2016 by Hong Kong Tatler. He used to work as Director of Wine in The Landmark Mandarin Oriental oversees operation at two-Michelin starred Amber, has teamed up with Madison Wine as Purchasing and Business Development Manager. For coming festive, it is his biggest honored to offer this wine pairing suggestion.

John Chan 曾榮獲香港專業品酒師協會舉辦的2006年度最佳品酒師及Hong Kong Tatler舉辦的2016年度最佳品酒師等獎項。他曾在置地文華東方酒店擔任葡萄酒總監,負責米其林二星級餐廳Amber的營運,現加入Madison Wine擔任採購和業務發展經理。佳節即將到來,他期昐能為饕客獻上這餐酒搭配建議。

All wines are available on Madison Wine website.

所有葡萄酒均可在Madison Wine 網站上購買。

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