Monthly Archives: June 2016

Full lineup of Romanee Saint-Vivant – Searching for the best of the best

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No one will deny that Burgundy is a dream wine region: Romanee-Conti, La Romanee and La Tache are undoubtedly the top 3. Some claim that the quality of Richebourg is already good enough to put itself to the 4th rank, however, many other wine critics have been focusing on Romanee Saint-Vivant in recent 2 decades as it is widely agreed that Romanee Saint-Vivant wines can already compete those of Richebourg.

In order to create an unforgettable experience for Burgundy lovers, Madison Wine collected and showcased this 13 bottles of Romanee Saint-Vivant wine. Some of them even ceased production and cannot be easily acquired now!

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The total area of Romanee Saint-Vivant is less than 10 hectares, apart from La Romanee Conti, other producers own less that 1 hectare of land and hence the production is so low, which is beyond your imagination.

 

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The reason why Burgundy could touch every wine lover’s heart is their variation, even the wines are from the same region, no matter how close the parcels are, the style of wines could be poles apart, each tells its own story. Without a doubt, the greatest hope of winemakers is to be able to bring terroirs into the bottles.

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The first flight is three bottles from Clos de Quatre Journaux – Poisot Plot:

Domaine Poisot RSV 2012, Dominique Mugneret RSV 2005 & Follin Arbelet RSV 2005

While Domaine Poisot and Follin Arbelet are made by the same winemaker, there is no way that they taste the same.

The most expressive

The style of Poisot was the most direct and expressive with loads of red fruits such as strawberry jam and vanilla cookies, oak was another prominent character which indicates its ageing potential.

On the other hand, Arbelet was rather light and with more black fruits such as black cherry aromas and flavours, it was still direct and simple, but never resembles the Poisot, nor would make you think that it is made by the same winemaker.

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The most exotic

Also from Poisot, Dominique Mugneret had a more surprising performance, its had greater power and concentration, full bodied with black fruits flavours, the balance between acidity and tannins was perfect, it might be considered as a reminiscence of an Italian Brunello. Its cost-price ratio was also good.

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Flight 2 consists of l’Arlot RSV 2011, Louis Latour RSV 2003 and Joseph Drouhin RSV 1997.

The best development

2001 was the last vintage of Joseph Drouhin and it has now ceased production. This 1997 we tasted was very attractive, its fruits were very ripe and yet pure and lively, its tea leaves, wet leaves and white mushroom flavours resulted from nearly 20 years of development in the bottle were the most noteworthy, and these could not be found in every bottle.

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The deepest in colour

This l’Arlot 2011 had the deepest colour among the 13 bottles, the fruits had also the deepest layers, such as black fruits and sour cherries, the extraction of tannins and structure was on a high level. Vanilla and baked oak from barrels were quite outstanding, with long and powerful finish.

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The most modern

Louis Latour is a big name in Burgundy, and the specialty of the wine was its new oak for ageing, and the grapes were not picked until they are very ripe, so the resulted wine had a contemporary face, red fruits flavours of strawberry jam with hints of black fruits. Ripe and yet pure, long lingering finish.

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The third flight is 3 bottles from the southeast sector Domaine Dujac RSV 2008, Sylvain Cathiard RSV 2007 and Robert Arnoux RSV 2000.

Highest potential

Many opinions have been saying that Robert Arnoux’s wine is tannic and does not resemble a Burgundy, but the tannins in this bottle were already well integrated into an all round palate, with high level of concentration. The aromas have developed to very mature tastes such as tea leaves with notes of black fruits, long finish. Still a lovely bottle to age and will be a value for money beauty after a few years of cellaring.

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Most aromatic

Sylvain Cathiard was another star of the night, its aromas in the glass were already the most attractive, its translucent and concentrated tastes of red fruits such as cooked raspberry juice was magnificent, the tannin level was just right and its ageing potential was also not to be ignored.

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The firmest

Domaine Dujac is another great name. This wine was decanted for 2 hours and it opened up gradually after that. It developed ripe red cherries and kirsch flavours in the glass. The wine was fermented whole cluster, so its structure was particularly firm and provides some zesty flavours from grape vine. Medium to high level of tannins, with ageing potential of 10 to 15 years.

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The 4th flight consists of 3 bottles from the north, which are Jean-Jacques Confuron RSV 2007, Hudelot-Noellat RSV 2003 and Leroy RSV 1996.

The most charismatic

Jean-Jacques Confuron had the ability to conquer all the guests, for a 2007, it is not easy to find a good combination of intense aromas with balance of red and black fruits, together with stunning concentration, thickness and structure. It might be considered young, but with its elegant palate, it was no doubt another lovely bottle.

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The most passionate

Speaking of passion, we refer to the slightly higher sensation of alcohol from this Hudelot-Noellat. Since 2003 was a rather hot year, high ripeness of grapes should be inevitable. Cooked cherries and kirsch aromas and flavours, relatively low in acidity showing another side of Burgundy.

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The most ripe

Leroy which is another big name, because of its nearly 20 years of age, this was a very mature wine with earthiness and meatiness together with black fruits. Its tannins and acidity were subtle and well integrated. This is the right time to enjoy this wine.

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The most tremendous

Owning the largest plot of land in Romanee Saint-Vivant, Domaine de La Romanee Conti showed its unique state-of-art, medium to full violet aromas and very pure red fruits. Showing very translucent light ruby red in colour, still a little bit closed even decanted for 2.5 hours, and it opened up after aeration in bottle for another one hour. Very high profile in concentration, tannins and structure with typical dryness which is very usual for a 2006 vintage. With a DRC having this performance, it was well enough to enjoy it for a couple of hours, and of course a lot of ageing potential for 10 to 15 years.

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Our representative guided all the guests through this journey to Romanee Saint-Vivant.

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Delicious menu from Michelin 1-star restaurant ‘seasons’ was served.

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One region, thirteen wines and they told their own stories. Do big names, expensive bottles always enchant? The answer is obviously ‘No’. Not a single bottle could win the race and this again proved that personal preference always accounts for the greatest part in terms of tasting since day one. The point is, do you have an opened mind for every tasting?

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3 Decades of Haut Brion Wine Dinner @ Tosca

3 Decades of Haut Brion Wine Dinner – Showcase of Mighty Vintages

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Haut Brion is the 1st growth winery in Bordeaux, and their name is always lined up side by side with other 1st growths: Lafite, Mouton, Latour and Margaux. Any bottle of Haut Brion costs a fortune already and the prices of some outstanding vintages are soaringly expensive.

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Haut Brion dinner ? It should already be held so many times by wine dealers until now, during this era of information when everyone seems to know about fine wine, so what is so special about this dinner ?

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Special 1

Only genuine Haut Brion wines are used

There are a number of dinners that mixed non-Haut Brion wines into the wine list in order to make compromise on the price. But, our guests could taste the great wines of Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion, together with all of their second labels, definitely a perfect colletion.

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Special 2

Exquisite dining table

The dinner was held at the private dining rooom  Floria inside Tosca, located on 102/F of Hong Kong tallest building ICC. Guests could enjoy dinner with spectacular Hong Kong night view.

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Special 3

Mighty vintages

The spotlight of the wine list, must be the 1989 Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion. Wines of same vintages of both wineries are selected side by side to pair with the same dish. In concert with 1989, other vintages that we used all end with number 9 such as 1999 and 2009, so that every guest could have the most unforgettable experience of great Haut Brion wines.

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The reason behind the greatness of 1989 is not only because of the particularly hot weather on that year contributing to the ripeness of grapes, the high quality winemaking arts also accounts for the success, the suppleness of the wine even made Robert Parker commented: ‘it is like a Chanel.’ Haut Brion 1989 is one of the six 100 points Bordeaux 1st growths from Robert Parker. He gave the perfect score not only in one occasion, but SIX ! He said: ‘ Life is too short not to drink this wine as many times as possible!

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The dinner started with 2009 Haut Brion second label white wine, its aromas of fig, melon and white flowers are complex and lovable, guests were easily relaxed. Guests are then served with bread and Haut Brion 1999 Blanc, and the first two dishes which are Sea Tiramisu and Fusilli. The acidity and crispiness paired well with the sauce of the Fusilli.

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At the same time, Mr Gerard Blanloeil, general manager who represents the two wineries was already sharing his personal experience at the wineries and guests were attracted a lot by his stories and future developments.

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Finally it was time for the two 100 points 1989 to be presented on stage, they were paired with milk-fed lamb chop. The body of the wine was a successful match with meat, however supporters were divided among the two wines. Both of them were full of black fruits and spices, but some drinkers prefer the structure of La Mission while some support the elegance and fruits of Haut Brion. All in all, tasting two 100 points wine is the biggest enjoyment and no one will disagree that 100 points plus 100 points will not just only equal to 200 points !

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The two 1999 of Haut Brion and La Mission continued to showcase the charisma of this 1st growth, very concentrated and yet superbly balanced and beautiful. Apart from black fruits, truffle and spices, sweet tannin structure and finish surprised all the drinkers too. How could guests resist it when paired with Australian Wagyu beef ?

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Some statistics showed that La Mission actually does have what it takes to be promoted to a 1st growth, however it still cannot be promoted due to some historical reasons, but tasting these wines with spectacular view and well made food, is also a once in a lifetime experience.

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