Monthly Archives: June 2016

Full lineup of Romanee Saint-Vivant – Searching for the best of the best十三瓶Romanee Saint-Vivant強勢列陣 – 尋找最中之最

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No one will deny that Burgundy is a dream wine region: Romanee-Conti, La Romanee and La Tache are undoubtedly the top 3. Some claim that the quality of Richebourg is already good enough to put itself to the 4th rank, however, many other wine critics have been focusing on Romanee Saint-Vivant in recent 2 decades as it is widely agreed that Romanee Saint-Vivant wines can already compete those of Richebourg.

In order to create an unforgettable experience for Burgundy lovers, Madison Wine collected and showcased this 13 bottles of Romanee Saint-Vivant wine. Some of them even ceased production and cannot be easily acquired now!

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The total area of Romanee Saint-Vivant is less than 10 hectares, apart from La Romanee Conti, other producers own less that 1 hectare of land and hence the production is so low, which is beyond your imagination.

 

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The reason why Burgundy could touch every wine lover’s heart is their variation, even the wines are from the same region, no matter how close the parcels are, the style of wines could be poles apart, each tells its own story. Without a doubt, the greatest hope of winemakers is to be able to bring terroirs into the bottles.

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The first flight is three bottles from Clos de Quatre Journaux – Poisot Plot:

Domaine Poisot RSV 2012, Dominique Mugneret RSV 2005 & Follin Arbelet RSV 2005

While Domaine Poisot and Follin Arbelet are made by the same winemaker, there is no way that they taste the same.

The most expressive

The style of Poisot was the most direct and expressive with loads of red fruits such as strawberry jam and vanilla cookies, oak was another prominent character which indicates its ageing potential.

On the other hand, Arbelet was rather light and with more black fruits such as black cherry aromas and flavours, it was still direct and simple, but never resembles the Poisot, nor would make you think that it is made by the same winemaker.

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The most exotic

Also from Poisot, Dominique Mugneret had a more surprising performance, its had greater power and concentration, full bodied with black fruits flavours, the balance between acidity and tannins was perfect, it might be considered as a reminiscence of an Italian Brunello. Its cost-price ratio was also good.

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Flight 2 consists of l’Arlot RSV 2011, Louis Latour RSV 2003 and Joseph Drouhin RSV 1997.

The best development

2001 was the last vintage of Joseph Drouhin and it has now ceased production. This 1997 we tasted was very attractive, its fruits were very ripe and yet pure and lively, its tea leaves, wet leaves and white mushroom flavours resulted from nearly 20 years of development in the bottle were the most noteworthy, and these could not be found in every bottle.

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The deepest in colour

This l’Arlot 2011 had the deepest colour among the 13 bottles, the fruits had also the deepest layers, such as black fruits and sour cherries, the extraction of tannins and structure was on a high level. Vanilla and baked oak from barrels were quite outstanding, with long and powerful finish.

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The most modern

Louis Latour is a big name in Burgundy, and the specialty of the wine was its new oak for ageing, and the grapes were not picked until they are very ripe, so the resulted wine had a contemporary face, red fruits flavours of strawberry jam with hints of black fruits. Ripe and yet pure, long lingering finish.

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The third flight is 3 bottles from the southeast sector Domaine Dujac RSV 2008, Sylvain Cathiard RSV 2007 and Robert Arnoux RSV 2000.

Highest potential

Many opinions have been saying that Robert Arnoux’s wine is tannic and does not resemble a Burgundy, but the tannins in this bottle were already well integrated into an all round palate, with high level of concentration. The aromas have developed to very mature tastes such as tea leaves with notes of black fruits, long finish. Still a lovely bottle to age and will be a value for money beauty after a few years of cellaring.

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Most aromatic

Sylvain Cathiard was another star of the night, its aromas in the glass were already the most attractive, its translucent and concentrated tastes of red fruits such as cooked raspberry juice was magnificent, the tannin level was just right and its ageing potential was also not to be ignored.

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The firmest

Domaine Dujac is another great name. This wine was decanted for 2 hours and it opened up gradually after that. It developed ripe red cherries and kirsch flavours in the glass. The wine was fermented whole cluster, so its structure was particularly firm and provides some zesty flavours from grape vine. Medium to high level of tannins, with ageing potential of 10 to 15 years.

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The 4th flight consists of 3 bottles from the north, which are Jean-Jacques Confuron RSV 2007, Hudelot-Noellat RSV 2003 and Leroy RSV 1996.

The most charismatic

Jean-Jacques Confuron had the ability to conquer all the guests, for a 2007, it is not easy to find a good combination of intense aromas with balance of red and black fruits, together with stunning concentration, thickness and structure. It might be considered young, but with its elegant palate, it was no doubt another lovely bottle.

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The most passionate

Speaking of passion, we refer to the slightly higher sensation of alcohol from this Hudelot-Noellat. Since 2003 was a rather hot year, high ripeness of grapes should be inevitable. Cooked cherries and kirsch aromas and flavours, relatively low in acidity showing another side of Burgundy.

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The most ripe

Leroy which is another big name, because of its nearly 20 years of age, this was a very mature wine with earthiness and meatiness together with black fruits. Its tannins and acidity were subtle and well integrated. This is the right time to enjoy this wine.

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The most tremendous

Owning the largest plot of land in Romanee Saint-Vivant, Domaine de La Romanee Conti showed its unique state-of-art, medium to full violet aromas and very pure red fruits. Showing very translucent light ruby red in colour, still a little bit closed even decanted for 2.5 hours, and it opened up after aeration in bottle for another one hour. Very high profile in concentration, tannins and structure with typical dryness which is very usual for a 2006 vintage. With a DRC having this performance, it was well enough to enjoy it for a couple of hours, and of course a lot of ageing potential for 10 to 15 years.

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Our representative guided all the guests through this journey to Romanee Saint-Vivant.

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Delicious menu from Michelin 1-star restaurant ‘seasons’ was served.

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One region, thirteen wines and they told their own stories. Do big names, expensive bottles always enchant? The answer is obviously ‘No’. Not a single bottle could win the race and this again proved that personal preference always accounts for the greatest part in terms of tasting since day one. The point is, do you have an opened mind for every tasting?

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勃艮第是夢幻的葡萄酒產區,Romanee-Conti、La Romanee、La Tache無容置疑是當地三甲著名產區,有指Richebourg的質素也算是第四位,不過,葡萄酒飲家開始把更多焦點放在Romanee Saint-Vivant,酒評家認為近二十年的產酒,已經能媲美Richebourg,證明Romanee Saint-Vivant不容忽視。

Madison Wine為了讓真正喜愛勃艮第的朋友,經歷一次難忘的旅程,便一次過集合十三瓶Romanee Saint-Vivant的美酒,其中有的已不會再出產,未必再有機會遇上!

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Romanee Saint-Vivant的田地總面積只有寥寥幾公頃,除了La Romanee Conti外,其他的擁有者持有土地不足一公頃,產酒量之少,大家可以想像到。勃艮第能觸動葡萄酒愛好者的原因,就是縱使在同一產區,那怕距離如何接近,酒的表現也絕對有機會南轅北轍,各自訴說各自故事,當然,釀酒師最希望的,就是能把風土帶進瓶中,杯中美酒仿彿讓飲家看見葡萄田風貌。

 

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有心把這十幾瓶同一產區但來自不同生產者一起的美酒放在一起舉行晚宴,相信在市場上也不會有多少人,每位參與其中的嘉賓,也同意這可能是空前絕後的經驗。

要比較多瓶同產區美酒,最好的方法便是把相鄰地域的產酒一同品嘗,當你以為味道會一樣嗎,世上那有那麼巧合的事?

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第一組的Domaine Poisot 2012、Dominique Mugneret 2005和Follin Arbelet 2005同樣來自區域內由Poisot擁有的土地,Domaine Poisot和Follin Arbelet更出自同一釀酒師!

同一土地、同一釀酒師,味道如果一樣,那就沒理由叫做兩瓶酒!

最直接

Poisot風格簡單直接,有大量的果味,以草莓果醬、香草曲奇餅的紅果為主,橡木也是此酒的另一突出性格,表示此酒尚有很多瓶內陳年的空間。

另一方面,Arbelet卻十分輕盈,比起Poisot的紅果,Arbelet還帶有以黑櫻桃為主的黑果香氣和味道,整體同樣簡單直接,但不會令人覺得是出自同一人手筆。

 

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最異國

而同樣來自Poisot土地的Dominique Mugneret表現更出人意料,力量和集中度都更勝一籌,口感豐腴有力量,有如黑櫻桃的果味,酸度、單寧的平衡也在極好的層次,令人想起意大利的Brunello,也是性價比之選。

 

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另一組合就是於Poisot北面鄰接的l’Arlot 2011、Louis Latour 2003和Joseph Drouhin 1997。

最佳發展

其中Joseph Drouhin最後一個年分酒是2001,現在已不會再出產了,我們先談這一瓶,也是十分吸引的一瓶。果味非常成熟卻又純淨而有活力,最深得人心的,是它在瓶內的近二十年的發展,發展出剛剛好的茶葉、濕樹葉、白菌等等,這種展現並非每瓶都可以找到。

 

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最深色

l’Arlot 2011最獨特之處是它擁有十三瓶酒之中最深的顏色,果味亦帶有最深層次的黑果,也有帶酸的櫻桃,單寧、結構的萃取都是最高層次的,來自橡木的香草、烘烤味道也最突出,收結長而有力。

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最現代

Louis Latour是勃艮第的大名字,這一瓶酒最獨特之處是它以全新木桶作陳年,也特別於葡萄最成熟時才收割,釀出的酒感覺最現代。味道以草莓果醬為主的紅果,也能找到一點點黑果,整體成熟和純淨,收結十分持久。

 

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產區東南面有又有另外三瓶的組合:Domaine Dujac 2008、Sylvain Cathiard 2007和Robert Arnoux 2000。

最有潛質

不少人指出Robert Arnoux造的酒單寧較強,不似一般勃艮第,不過這一瓶的單寧已融合得十分圓滑,像經過細心打磨雕琢,集中度極高。香氣已發展出有如茶葉的成熟感覺,味道略偏重黑果,收結長久,當有更多瓶內陳年潛質,相信幾年後更加迷人,也是另一瓶性價比之選。

 

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最芳香

Sylvain Cathiard也是另一瓶當晩的明星,在杯中的香氣最撲鼻也是最吸引,十分集中的紅果,有如煮熟的覆盆子果汁,擁有極佳通透感,單寧層次剛剛好,也有足夠陳年潛力。

 

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最結實

Domaine Dujac是另一重量級名字,在飲用前已在醒酒器兩小時,酒體才剛剛開放起來,在杯中慢慢發展出成熟的櫻桃和紅果利口酒味道,由於此酒採用整束葡萄發酵,結構特別堅固,也提供了像葡萄枝的味道,單寧中上程度,絕對能多窖藏十至十五年。

 

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來到產區北面,三瓶酒分別是Jean-Jacques Confuron 2007、Hudelot-Noellat 2003和Leroy 1996。

最有魅力

Jean-Jacques Confuron迷倒不少嘉賓,香氣強勁已令人迷醉,紅果和黑果的平衡是產區中少見,極佳的集中度、厚度和結構等多個元素,未必能在每一瓶2007年酒找到,雖然仍可算是年輕,但已經十分吸引,優雅口感令人讚歎,令此酒容易得到支持。

 

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最熱情

說Hudelot-Noellat最熱情,因為它給予飲用者的酒精感覺最明顯,可能因為2003年是頗為炎熱的一年,葡萄成熟度高,香氣和味道的感覺都像經烹調過的櫻桃和草莓的利口酒,酸度略低,感覺與一般勃艮第酒頗不一樣。

 

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最成熟

又來到另一個大名字Leroy,可能因為已屆雙十年華,此酒在瓶內已發展得極為成熟,展現果味之餘,也有不少像泥土和肉類氣息,單寧和酸度已經在年月沖洗下變得收斂,現在絕對是合適時候,大快朵頤。

 

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最澎湃

擁有產區最大面積土地的,就是康帝DRC。一如所料,它有如紫羅蘭的花香是最獨一無二的,香氣程度中上,紅果香氣純淨至極,顏色明亮通透,光看已經有貴族之感。即使經過兩個半小時醒酒,仍尚有一點緊致,在瓶中再醒酒一小時,它才露出臉來。無論在集中度、單寧和結構上都十分高調,也有典型2006年的乾身口感,有這種表現的DRC,絕對足以慢慢細嘗幾小時,又或者在瓶中再陳年10至12年。

 

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我們的代表帶領所有嘉賓參加這個 Romanee Saint-Vivant 的難忘旅程。

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美酒配以銅鑼灣米芝蓮一星級餐廳 seasons 的佳餚。

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一個產區,十三瓶酒,各自表述,各有所愛。是不是最大的名字、最昂貴的一瓶最得到歡心?

答案當然不是,當晚並未有一瓶能一枝獨秀,再次證明喝酒口味,從第一天開始就是最個人感受,問題是,你有沒有一扇開放的心窗?

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3 Decades of Haut Brion Wine Dinner @ Tosca30年的 Haut Brion 美酒晚宴 @ Tosca


3 Decades of Haut Brion Wine Dinner – Showcase of Mighty Vintages

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Haut Brion is the 1st growth winery in Bordeaux, and their name is always lined up side by side with other 1st growths: Lafite, Mouton, Latour and Margaux. Any bottle of Haut Brion costs a fortune already and the prices of some outstanding vintages are soaringly expensive.

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Haut Brion dinner ? It should already be held so many times by wine dealers until now, during this era of information when everyone seems to know about fine wine, so what is so special about this dinner ?

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Special 1

Only genuine Haut Brion wines are used

There are a number of dinners that mixed non-Haut Brion wines into the wine list in order to make compromise on the price. But, our guests could taste the great wines of Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion, together with all of their second labels, definitely a perfect colletion.

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Special 2

Exquisite dining table

The dinner was held at the private dining rooom  Floria inside Tosca, located on 102/F of Hong Kong tallest building ICC. Guests could enjoy dinner with spectacular Hong Kong night view.

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Special 3

Mighty vintages

The spotlight of the wine list, must be the 1989 Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion. Wines of same vintages of both wineries are selected side by side to pair with the same dish. In concert with 1989, other vintages that we used all end with number 9 such as 1999 and 2009, so that every guest could have the most unforgettable experience of great Haut Brion wines.

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The reason behind the greatness of 1989 is not only because of the particularly hot weather on that year contributing to the ripeness of grapes, the high quality winemaking arts also accounts for the success, the suppleness of the wine even made Robert Parker commented: ‘it is like a Chanel.’ Haut Brion 1989 is one of the six 100 points Bordeaux 1st growths from Robert Parker. He gave the perfect score not only in one occasion, but SIX ! He said: ‘ Life is too short not to drink this wine as many times as possible!

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The dinner started with 2009 Haut Brion second label white wine, its aromas of fig, melon and white flowers are complex and lovable, guests were easily relaxed. Guests are then served with bread and Haut Brion 1999 Blanc, and the first two dishes which are Sea Tiramisu and Fusilli. The acidity and crispiness paired well with the sauce of the Fusilli.

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At the same time, Mr Gerard Blanloeil, general manager who represents the two wineries was already sharing his personal experience at the wineries and guests were attracted a lot by his stories and future developments.

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Finally it was time for the two 100 points 1989 to be presented on stage, they were paired with milk-fed lamb chop. The body of the wine was a successful match with meat, however supporters were divided among the two wines. Both of them were full of black fruits and spices, but some drinkers prefer the structure of La Mission while some support the elegance and fruits of Haut Brion. All in all, tasting two 100 points wine is the biggest enjoyment and no one will disagree that 100 points plus 100 points will not just only equal to 200 points !

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The two 1999 of Haut Brion and La Mission continued to showcase the charisma of this 1st growth, very concentrated and yet superbly balanced and beautiful. Apart from black fruits, truffle and spices, sweet tannin structure and finish surprised all the drinkers too. How could guests resist it when paired with Australian Wagyu beef ?

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Some statistics showed that La Mission actually does have what it takes to be promoted to a 1st growth, however it still cannot be promoted due to some historical reasons, but tasting these wines with spectacular view and well made food, is also a once in a lifetime experience.


30年的侯伯王(Haut Brion)美酒晚宴 – 偉大年分大集合

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Haut-Brion 是舉世聞名的波爾多一級酒莊,與Lafite、Mouton、Latour和Margaux齊名,普通的一瓶Haut Brion動不動就要幾千元,優質而偉大的年分,都是價值不菲。

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Haut Brion晚宴?多年來無數酒商在市面上已舉辦過無窮無盡那麼多次,到現時這個百花齊放、每個人都似乎懂酒的年代,這種晚宴還有甚麼特別之處?

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特別之處一:
只選用真正Haut Brion出品
外間有不少晚宴,因爲遷就價錢,在Haut Brion以外混入了其他酒莊的酒,但今次的晚宴,嘉賓不但能親嘗Haut Brion和其姊妹酒La Mission Haut Brion,更包括兩酒莊的所有副牌酒,堪稱完美組合。

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特別之處二:
奢華餐桌
晚宴選址位於全港最高建築物環球貿易廣場102樓的意大利餐廳tosca,置身私人廂房FLORIA內,透過落地玻璃,在醉人夜景陪伴下,晚宴更感愜意。

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特別之處三:
偉大年分
晚宴酒單的焦點,絕對是1989年的Haut Brion和La Mission Haut Brion。其實在設計酒單時,我們已特地選用兩酒莊同年分的酒作正面交鋒比拼,為了配合1989年,其他用酒特別選用同是以9作結的年分,如1999和2009,讓嘉賓一次過感受超越30年Haut Brion美酒盛典。

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1989年之所以能釀出偉大的酒,除了當年天氣特別炎熱,葡萄的成熟度足夠,酒莊的釀造工藝也不能忽視,成品柔滑得令Robert Parker把La Mission形容為像是Chanel出品一樣;而Haut Brion的偉大之處,就在於它是Robert Parker給予100分的6瓶波爾多一級酒之一,他不是在一個場合給予滿分,而是在六個!他說:「人生太短,一定要喝這酒愈多次愈好!」此酒也是去年10月白金漢宮英女皇國宴用作招待中國國家主席習近平用酒,同場品嘗的尚有英國首相卡梅倫、威廉王子及太太凱特。

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晚宴由Haut Brion的副牌2009年白酒揭開序幕,無花果、蜜瓜、白花等香氣四溢,複雜的果味惹人喜愛,輕易把嘉賓帶進輕鬆的氣氛。隨後嘉賓就座,服務團隊開始為嘉賓送上麵包籃和Haut Brion 1999年白酒,第一及第二道菜的海鮮提拉米蘇及鮮雞番茄汁芝士意大利粉也隨後奉上,此款白酒的清爽和酸度,讓意大利粉的口感更清爽起來。

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與此同時,代表兩酒莊的總經理Gerard Blanloeil先生早已在滔滔不絕地談及屬他自己的釀酒故事和第一身的經歷,趣味盎然,嘉賓也把握這個機會樂於和這位帥哥詢問有關酒莊的故事,和未來的發展動向。

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隨後,就是兩酒莊偉大的1989年紅酒出場的時候,兩瓶Robert Parker 100分之作,場面當然相當震撼。兩款酒分別配以精心炮製的乳飼羊扒,酒體和羊扒剛好配合,然而兩款酒各有粉絲,兩款酒同樣擁有強勁的黑果和香料味道,有人喜歡La Mission的剛勁結構,有人則喜歡Haut Brion的柔和以及果味,總言之能同時享受兩瓶100分美酒已是今次晚宴最大賣點,100分加100分加起來的享受一定不止200分!

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兩瓶1999年的Haut Brion和La Mission佳作繼續展現這家一級酒莊的魅力,集中度高卻是極平衡和漂亮,在黑果、松露和香料之外,甜美丹寧結構和餘韻都有令人喜出望外的表現,配以鮮嫩味美的澳洲和牛,怎能不令人垂涎?

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有統計指La Mission有資格升級為一級酒莊,與Haut Brion同樣偉大,不過相信因為歷史原因而暫未能真正升級,然而能在醉人夜景、美食和偉大美酒各方面同時集合一起,回憶也一樣珍貴。

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